Q: Is the Stage 1 suitable for my car?
A: The Diamond Clutch Stage 1 is perfect for a modded car, but it is also a great choice for a bone stock car. This clutch yields excellent driveability, even with high HP cars up to 500rwhp. It is intended for street driving, yet it's still good for occasional track use (just not 5000RPM launch!).
Q: How does the Stage 1 compare to the "LS7" clutch?
A: While the two are very similar, the Stage 1 is a step above the “LS7” clutch. The disc is made up of a heavy duty hub, and stronger organic friction material. Also, the Stage 1 uses a heavy duty non-adjustable pressure place. Whereas the “LS7” uses a “stock-style” adjustable pressure plate, leaving more room for failure.
Q: Is the Stage 2 suitable for my car?
A: The Stage 2 is a dual friction design. Essentially, it’s a mix of the Stage 1 and Stage 2. It maintains excellent holding capacity while having “near stock” drivability. Rated at 600rwhp. Great for just about any car.
Q: Is the Stage 3 suitable for my car?
A: The Stage 3 is excellent for heavy abuse at the track. It's suprisingly streetable, but not as streetable as the Stage 1/ Stage 2 versions. The main difference is that the Stage 3 works like an on/off switch. It takes a little getting used to. Also this design tends to have some chatter, but it gets better as the clutch is worn in (300-500 miles). Great for hard launching at the track, and cars making 500-700rwhp.
Q: Is it neccessary to replace the flywheel?
A: Yes, we highly recommend replacing the flywheel with the Stage 2 and Stage 3 kits. The flywheel that we provide in all “Complete kits” is made of a high grade of steel which resists the additional heat generated by the ceramic / metallic friction material. Under extreme heat conditions, our flywheel will not crack and is resistant to warping. With the Stage 1, you can get away with re-surfacing the stock flywheel, since this clutch operates at a lower temperature.
Q: I already have an aftermarket billet flywheel. Will it work with all the Diamond Clutch kits?
A: Yes, any billet flywheel will work. If it is used at all, it must be resurfaced before being installed. Of course, we recommend the lightweight 15lb chromoly billet flywheel, as most other billet flywheels weigh 25-30lbs.
Q: Why do the basic kits NOT include a throwout bearing?
A: The throwout bearing is actually part of the slave cylinder. These kits only include the basic componets of a clutch kit. If you would like to purchase a slave cylinder/throwout bearing with a basic kit, just ask and we can add it on.
Q: I see other clutch companies selling a huge variety of other designs. Why doesn't Diamond Clutch offer them?
A: None of these other designs that you are seeing meet our high standards. This is what sets us apart from the competition. We will NOT sell something that has not proven itself. Here is a list of some of the popular designs that we tested, with the results.
Ceramic/metallic friction material. Full-faced disc vs 6-puck disc.
During testing, we found ceramic/metallic material to work better than anything else. However, when used on a full-faced disc, it will easily overheat, causing premature failure. We ended up using the 6-puck design for cooling purposes. With this design, there is an air gap between each puck, allowing it to run much cooler. This setup has proven time and time again to be streetable and very durable. After all, puck-style ceramic/metallic discs have been used in dump trucks for the past 25 years, so you know they are made to handle some serious abuse!
Sintered iron friction material.
It works great, but you pay in other ways. A sintered iron disc is super-hard, and wears very little, if at all. The down-side to this is that it will wear out the flywheel and pressure plate at an accelerated rate. It also tends to be very noisy upon engagement. Like the ceramic/metallic material, it does not work well in a full-faced disc due to the excessive heat. This material simply has too many disadvantages, so we do not offer it.